Page 8 - MidWeek Windward - Dec 7, 2022

8
DECEMBER 7, 2022
Aloha surfers and beachgoers,
There has been a run of surf for the north, west and windward shores. Nov. 29 and Dec. 3 brought big northwest to west-northwest episodes. However, just prior to that, there was a run of ex- tra-large north to north-north- east swells that we haven’t seen since 1993. It had waves reaching between 12 and 20 feet on the distant “mysto” outer reefs on Nov. 24-26.
Makapu‘u. There were even crazy-big sets sweeping by in the middle of the ocean as the north-northeast swell wrapped around Makapu‘u. Plenty of that energy does not make it to any shoreline, and maybe that’s a good thing.
phase in the middle of the two continuums. Large North Pa- cific storms and swells are de- pendent on the strength of El Niño, and on a weak El Niño season, we may only see av- erage or even below-average waves generated. Conversely, we can have significant surf during a La Niña as we’ve seen so far this early season. Nature is far more nuanced and complex than meets even the curious eye. We got tons of mileage out of the La Niña two weeks ago for the seventh and final Challenger Series
surfing contest of the season. This second tier out of three is part of the World Champion- ship Tour.
Jonathan Huynh — a hard- core surfer buddy of mine and a superb Surf News Net- work forecaster — went out to Sandy Beach and gave a firsthand report. The sets av- eraged about 6-8 feet inside at Full Point, but there were much larger waves further outside past Erma’s toward
ic Ocean. El Niño is just the opposite, or slightly warmer than average. This flux or cy- cle between warmer and cool- er than average ocean tem- peratures is known as ENSO (El Niño-Southern Oscilla- tion). The phenomenon is un- known to most people, but to scientists and meteorologists, it is well-known and studied.
ENSO is one the most im- portant climate phenomena on Earth, due to its power to change global atmospheric circulation — meaning tem- perature and rain — across the globe. It’s also related to surf. Thus, many surfers pay atten- tion to which phase of ENSO we’re in. There are three phases, since there’s a neutral
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BY GARY KEWLEY
Many Surfers Pay Attention To Changes In Seas
This was quite a run, con- sidering that La Niña (the lit- tle girl) has been in charge of the tropical Pacific for more than a year. Usually, it’s El Niño (the little boy) that has the biggest, most consistent surf for the winter season. This is the third La Niña win- ter in a row, and this has only happened three times since the historical record started back to the 1950s.
Hawai‘i’s Bettylou Sakura Johnson throws spray while surfing at Ali‘i Beach Park in Hale‘iwa. PHOTO COURTESY HEFF/WSL
It’s going to be a cra- zy-good year, no matter what — whether it’s La Niña or El Niño, and I believe it’s going to be La Niña. That’s what National Oceanic Atmospher- ic Administration suggests — a 90% chance that the “little girl” will be in control. Happy holidays and happy surfing.
gary@surfnewsnetwork.com
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La Niña happens when there’s an abnormal cooling of the water in the central and eastern tropics of the Pacif-
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