Page 3 - MidWeek West - Dec 15, 2021

That rare episode left the ocean brown with dirty water runoff and debris — like big logs floating inside Ala Moana Bowls. It was creepy and weird not seeing
thought that there’s no way they’d be able to run in a 12- 20-foot north swell. Waimea was going off along with the outer reefs. Hale‘iwa maxes out at 12 feet, maybe 15 feet
when it’s a west-northwest to northwest swell. This was not just the wrong direction (north) but it was way over the size limit. But, lo and behold, Mother Nature allowed it.
It was no surprise that the North Shore’s very own 29-year-old prodigy John John Florence won. He surfs here more than just about anyone but Zeke Lau.
North Shore victory to date, and he’s now tied the late great Andy Irons. You just know that Florence may eventually have the most
anyone out surfing early on Dec. 7 when the waves or- ganized into rideable shape. Again, no one was out from Waikīkī to Kewalos. That meant even hardcore surfers weren’t taking any chances, which is exceedingly rare for our breed. Eventually, of course, they ventured out and did just fine — luckily.
Hats off big time to the contest director Marty Thomas for making the risky but correct call. This extra large swell was dropping and Tuesday was the final day of the holding period. They had to finish the men’s and wom- en’s heats. They did.
The key is how he won. It’s one word — domination. How anyone could go out on a crazy day like Dec. 5 and make the best surfers on the planet look average is astonishing. Florence had more power, speed, control and radical maneuvers than anyone. He even nailed a perfect 10 with unmatched turns, a tube ride and two
Prior to the storm of the year, we got to finish up the Michelob ULTRA Pure Gold Hale‘iwa Challenger, the fi- nal stop of the 10,000-point series. The men went out first in out-of-control surf. I’ve been doing surf reports for 40 years and I really
O‘ahu’s own John John Florence won his second victory at the renowned reefbreak of Hale‘iwa. PHOTO COURTESY WSL/BRENT B.
Sunday had crazy condi- tions — rips, closeouts, bar- rels, chop and wobble — the whole ocean was alive in the surfers’ lineup.
aerials.
This is Florence’s ninth
DECEMBER 15, 2021 3
Aloha surfers and beachgoers,
I’m writing this December surf installment just as the worst storm in ages was easing up on us. Wow, it was all over the mainland news. Family and friends called to see if we were OK. During the peak flooding I could have surfed down Kalākaua Avenue or Fort Weaver Road, and some cars did!
BY GARY KEWLEY
O‘ahu Natives Win Big At North Shore Surf Contest
SEE PAGE 7
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