Page 8 - MidWeek East - Dec 7, 2022

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DECEMBER 7, 2022
Aloha surfers and beachgoers,
There has been a run of surf for the north, west and windward shores. Nov. 29 and Dec. 3 brought big northwest to west-north- west episodes. However, just prior to that, there was a run of extra-large north to north-northeast swells that we haven’t seen since 1993. Waves reached between 12 and 20 feet on the distant “mysto” outer reefs Nov. 24-26.
work forecaster — went out to Sandy Beach and gave a firsthand report. The sets av- eraged about 6-8 feet inside at Full Point, the off shore reef break at the eastern end of Sandy’s. Farther out, past “Irma’s” toward Makapu‘u, where much larger waves were even crazy-big sets sweeping by in the middle of the ocean as the north-north- east swell wrapped around Makapu‘u. Plenty of that en- ergy does not make it to any shoreline, and maybe that’s a good thing.
“ENSO is one of the most important climate phenomena on Earth, due to its power to change global atmospheric circulation — meaning temperature and rain — across the globe.”
tle girl) has been in charge of the tropical Pacific for more than a year. Usually, it’s El Niño (the little boy) that has the biggest, most consistent surf for the winter season. This is the third La Niña winter in a row, and this has only happened three times since the historical record
on Earth, due to its power to change global atmospheric circulation — meaning tem- perature and rain — across the globe.
BY GARY KEWLEY
Surfers Take Note Of Changes In Sea Temperatures
Jonathan Huynh — a hard- core surfer buddy of mine and a superb Surf News Net-
This was quite a run, con- sidering that La Niña (the lit-
warmer than average.
This flux or cycle be-
ENSO is one the most im- portant climate phenomena
Large North Pacific storms and swells are de- pendent on the strength of El Niño and on a weak El Niño season we may only see av- erage or even below-average waves generated.
started back to the 1950s. La Niña happens when there’s an abnormal cooling of the water in the central and eastern tropics of the Pacific Ocean. El Niño is just the opposite, or slightly
than average ocean tem- peratures is known as ENSO (El Niño-Southern Oscillation). The phenom- enon is unknown to most people, but to scientists and meteorologists, it is well- known and studied.
It’s also related to surf. Thus, many surfers pay at- tention to which phase of ENSO we’re in. There are three phases, since there’s a neutral phase in the middle of the two continuums.
tween warmer and cooler
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